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THE WEY
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Godalming Navigation
Godalming Wharf
to Catteshall Lock

When the Godalming Navigation was built one hundred years after the Wey Navigation it effectively extended the extent of the navigable waterway by four miles to reach the prosperous town of Godalming, then a considerable industrial centre especially for the clothing industry.

ELSEWHERE LINKS USING OUR IMAGES WEY ICE HOUSES GO TO GODALMING
click for a smile!

Wey
Snippets

WEY LIFE
“Godalming Wharf was very much like it is now, only then it was all timber camp-shedding. The various docks weren’t very large, there was just enough room to get a barge in. there were about four little docks.” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

Autumn colours
click image to enlarge

WEY NATURE
The much admired oak tree has much to share apart from its natural beauty. Apart from having provided wood for the shipbuilders that were furnishing the massive medieval English navy with their fighting ships, the noble oak has an important secret. Over 300 different species of insect and small animals make direct use of the tree in some way, the highest of any tree in Britain and is in effect a whole habitat in its own right.

WEY REWARD
An instructor at the Go Godalming Youth Canoe Club has been officially recognised (July 2007) for his tireless efforts in inspiring young canoeists to win British Canoe Union certificates in canoe proficiency. John Richardson was presented with the award on behalf of the local community.

WEY MISTY
"Another freezing fog-bound day in Godalming today. I wonder if the rest of the country is actually basking in glorious sunshine, and it's only Surrey which is lying under the misty curse? Reminds me of the start of one of those old Doctor Who episodes - possibly the one where the Cybermen first clump up out of the ocean. No sea here though. The Surrey matrons wouldn't allow it - Surrey's too rich for seawater." Blogger Anne Brooke 22nd December 2006

WEY ROVER
"Tonight we are back at Farncombe boathouse awaiting the remaining electrical equipment. Today we received our new inverter and alternator to battery charging system but we are still short of an alternator and various cables and connectors. The cables from the batteries to the invertor are huge multi strand cables, 13mm thick and capable of carrying 600v, a bit of overkill here I think. The engineer hopefully will buy the bits and pieces tomorrow and we can start on fitting it all together. " NB Gypsy Rover Blog October 2006

WEY HISTORICAL
The wholly surrealistic sight of aeroplanes being transported by barge along the Wey Navigation provided the residents of Byfleet and Weybridge with some gossip over a pint or two after the First World War. The planes had been built at nearby Brooklands and had become redundant once the war was over. A total of 37 aeroplane cargoes were moved this way.

TOW ROPE PULLEY
click image to enlarge

WEY LEISURE
"In spite of the heat wave Britain had enjoyed in the weeks before we arrived, the countryside around was as green and lush as ever and there were enough hands on deck for all the pushing of beams and turning of windlasses that were required to open the lock gates. Even the five-year-olds became experts on knotting the ropes on the tow path and clambering in and out of the boats, with their life jackets on of course. For the more lethargic - me - there was nothing more strenuous to do than chuck a rope up to the crew on the river bank and go back to reading the newspaper." Gloria Deutsch, JPost.com 5th October 2006

WEY THUNDERY
"Mist lies over the Lammas land below Godalming wharf as we return to Herbie bearing a two pint carton of Elsie Mo bitter from the rather wonderful Star Inn in town. A bat is circling the boat outside and as we approached the boat a fox scuttled across the moorings in front of us. Earlier this evening the horse pulling the trip boat Iona passed us as its handler deftly lifted the tow rope over Herbie’s chimney. This is the end of the navigable Wey.

We got a good soaking as a sudden thunderstorm hit us as we approached Farncombe, the heavens opened and we had no place to pull in and shelter for several minutes. Up until then we’ve had a lovely day. The Wey Navigation is all you would expect of a place run by the National Trust (which it is). It is green, well maintained and full of rustic charm. Often, I felt we were in a Constable painting as we approached an old wharf amongst the hay fields. I kept waiting for the grotty bits, but there weren’t any. In the estate agents window in Godalming some nice little cottages were a snip at £1.25 million.

"Even Guildford was nice, especially the bits after the town centre. Tomorrow we will return there to join the annual boat gathering, I hope we can get under the bridge at Shalford. Today we had barely an inch of clearance over Herbie’s chimney and it has been raining since, so the river may be higher.

"I retract yesterday’s comments about the easiness of the lock gear. After Guildford they get very stiff and we were glad of the extra long handles to get some leverage." Blogger: NB Herbie - Neil Corbett 3rd July 2008

WEY LION
"The decor was traditional pub (Red Lion, Godalming) complete with pews along the walls and a variety of chairs and stools. Tables looking nicely worn but still varnished. The carpet would have been painful on the eyes if it weren't so old, not threadbare but darkened/faded depending on what's been trodden in. They also seemed to like the dried hop bushels that were hung on many beams and windows. The ceiling had poles hanging across to which were covered with old pump clips for guest ales. This did mean that when left alone at the table you end up looking straight up at the more interesting clips, like one from the Isle of Wight that was made with Oysters!!! Quite glad that wasn't on!!" Blogger Mr P LiveJournal 20th December 2006

WEY UNCALM
A Farncombe resident has challenged the council's claim that Waverley traffic calming schemes have helped cyclists. David Kirkham has highlighted the fact that four recent schemes have made the roads more dangerous.

He cites that the speed cushions in Green Lane, Binscombe encourage motorists to swerve in order to position their vehicle so that it straddles the cushion. Another scheme in Summers Road, Farncombe provides a cycle gap between the cushions and the pavement that is so narrow that his handlebars collide with pedestrians. The same problem exists in Brighton Road, Busbridge and the cyclist claims that the cycle path on the A3100 in Farncombe does not meet national recommended standards on minimum widths. Source: Surrey Advertiser 18th January 2008

WEY POLL
In an online poll by Channel 4 for viewers to vote for their best and worse places to live come these comments:

"Farncombe is my choice. Lived here for 3 years and love it! It's got lots of amenities, takes only 40 mins to get to London by train, has Godalming and Guildford within a 5 minute journey, yet the cost of houses and flats here haven't become as expensive as G or G (yet!!) Farncombe definitely gets my vote! "

"Godalming and its surrounding villages of Milford and Farncombe are lovely: plenty to see and do yet within easy reach of London, which probably accounts for the cost of properties being so expensive. Beautiful area to live."

"The Waverley area is a great place to live, although property prices in Guildford (just outside the Waverley boundary) and Godalming are extortionate, which makes Farncombe - a very up and coming town situated between the two - a great place to buy and live. It's a cosmopolitan town to live in with a village lifestyle, easy train commute to London, using all the amenities of neighbouring Guildford and Godalming, so this, to me, makes Farncombe THE place to live." Source: channel4bestandworst.com 4th May 2008

WEY HADAR
"As we arrived in Godalming, the first thing was finding a mooring because there did not seem to be any of a suitable size for Hadar, well that was until NB Belle moved off and we moved from the sanitary point to their mooring. Having moored up at 12.15pm and had lunch we then took a walk into Godalming. It is a very pretty town, with a lot of very old buildings, with a great deal of character. Keith and I enjoyed a walk around the very small museum, which is free to enter. As with all towns we visited the charity shops, but there was nothing that caught our eye.

"As we arrived back at the boat, horse drawn boat Iona was being prepared for a trip out with passengers onboard. Iona is a small Woolwich built in December 1935 fleet number was 232 and used to go by the name of Bellerophon, which was paired with Boots. We sat and watched as the horse went about its job, taking paying customers on a peaceful trip along the navigation. I went into Sainsbury’s which is right by the mooring to buy a few bits to top up supplies, it always pays to keep extras onboard. It had been a lovely day." Blogger: Hadar 1st June 2008

MOVE ON
to the next stretch of the Godalming Navigation:
CATTESHALL TO UNSTEAD LOCK

WEY VALLEY MADNESS:
THE WOBBLY HILL RACES

NARROWBOATS ON GODALMING NAVIGATION

Godalming Wharf
Furthest Navigable Point

“Everybody that has been from Godalming to Guildford, knows that there is hardly another such a pretty four miles in all England. The road is good; the soil is good; the houses are neat; the people are neat: the hills, the woods, the meadows, all are beautiful. Nothing wild and bold, to be sure, but exceedingly pretty; and it is almost impossible to ride along these four miles without feelings of pleasure, though you have rain for your companion, as it happened to be with me." William Cobbett 1822

Prior to the National Trust taking over Godalming Wharf (GR: SU974441) the site, after the Navigation closed for commercial business, went through considerable morphing of uses, which at various stages included a gas works (located where the police station now stands on stilts) and a bus station. The original 18th century wharf was built on a 10 acre plot of land acquired by the Navigation Commissioners when the waterway was completed here in 1764, and riverside it stretched up to Town Bridge. The difficulty of having the towpath running on the opposite side to the wharf was initially overcome by the building of a swing horse bridge, although this quickly fell into disrepair and the towpath was extended up to the road bridge very much as you see it today.

Bridge Street b y Stephen Goddard
click on image to go to artist's website

By 1849 the dock had been filled in. In the 1980s the National Trust and Waverley Borough Council agreed a plan for the site which involved much of it being sold off to raise £2m in funds for the Trust, but also provided the council with an opportunity to impose some strict controls on the waterfront development. Today all that remains of the original Godalming Terminus is the wharf moorings and an original brick and weather-boarded building now used as a stable by the Godalming Packet Boat Company for a rest facility for its tow horses. The moorings are used for their boat, the Iona, and other privately owned vessels.

Given the historic importance of this location as the upstream limit of the Wey Navigations it is a pity that more couldn’t have been made of the site, perhaps even with a small education facility. In its heyday in the early 19th century traffic to and from the busy wharf here carried timber planks, hoops for barrels, bark, flour and manufactured iron. The main site of the wharf was converted for retail use in the 1990s and today a large supermarket and several smaller stores occupy the site.

GODALMING TERMINUS

The Lammas Lands

Across the shallow valley beyond the Lammas Lands lies the sprawling settlement of Farncombe, a broadly modern development interspersed with small pockets of more historic buildings. Farncombe Station (GR: SU976451) was opened on the very same day in 1897 that the Godalming Navigation closed its terminus, very poignant timing given that it was effectively the railways that drove the waterway out of business.

The Lammas Lands (GR: SU978445) are so called because this large acreage of open water meadow was part of the communal farming system which opened up the fields to common grazing once the hay had been harvested after the religious festival of Lammas on the 1st August. The name originates from ‘Loaf Mass’ when a loaf baked for the occasion was consecrated at a special mass to celebrate the harvest. The water meadows are designated as a Site of Nature Conservation Interest in recognition of the need to preserve an important habitat for rare and protected species including birds such as reed bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus) and plants including meadow saxifrage (Saxifrage granulata). Many species of insects are also attracted to the meadows.

Waverley Borough Council took back direct control of the Lammas Lands in 2007 with the intention of providing close management to improve their biodiversity and public access, The council owns the meadows and had for some years leased them back to the family of the original owners, who in turn had rented the land to local livestock owners for grazing. Over this time horses and ponies have been a common sight on the water meadows. The council say that they were forced to take action after complaints concerning escaped ponies damaging adjoining allotments and other property including Broadwater Park, and intend to return to traditional grazing by cattle which they say will be tightly managed to prevent overgrazing.

The Navigation now part-follows the original course of the river, and part a man-made cut dug to cut through a lazy long meander that circles up through Catteshall.

Garth Allan's watercolour of Catteshall Lock
click on image to go to artist's website Click to visit Garth Allan's Website

Fears over Flood Funding Cuts

A local residents' association is expressing concern (August 2006) that Defra (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) is proposing to make cuts to the budgets assigned for flood defence.

The Lammas Resident's Association, representing people who live under constant threat of flooding from the Lammas water meadows, has long been campaigning for improved flood defences and are worried over the fact that the National Flood Forum have made formal representations to the Environment Minister challenging Defra's position.

"The Flood Forum have not quantified these cuts but they are rumoured to be substantial. This goes against previous Government promises and seems inappropriate with evidence that global warming is almost certainly going to increase the misery experienced by those who regularly flood," said the Association's chairman Bob Zannetti. "I am particularly concerned for the folk who live in the Catteshall area near Hell's Ditch."

Source:
Surrey Advertiser 11th August 2006

Lammas Lands by Stephen Goddard
click on image to go to artist's website Click to visit Garth Allan's Website

Catteshall Lock & Farncombe

The water management system around Catteshall Lock (GR: SU981445) - rise of 5ft 6in (1.68m) - is quite complex in that it consists of three channels. Before the canal was cut, the river undertook several small meanders to Catteshall and the waterway sliced through these to straighten the route, with the lock built at the end of the cut. The course of the river proper passes through what is now an upmarket housing estate and rejoins the river at the end of an island, with an additional by-pass stream tumbling over a weir before reaching Catteshall Mill.

Godalming, Catteshall Lock 1908.  (Neg. 59954)  © Copyright The Francis Frith Collection 2007. http://www.francisfrith.com
Catteshall Lock 1908
Reproduced courtesy of The Francis Frith Collection
 

The original lock of 1764 was rebuilt in the late 1990s using brick and Portland Stone in place of the original locally quarried Bargate Stone, which sadly couldn’t be sourced by the National Trust in the right sizes. Three of the four Godalming Navigation locks were originally built of bricks, the exception being St Catherine’s further downstream which was constructed of timber. The Lock is 19 miles (31 km) from the Thames.

Catteshall Lock by Kevin Gorton

The nearest pub to Catteshall Lock is the Leathern Bottle a short walk away and located in Meadrow on the main A3100 running between Guildford and Godalming. On weekends The Three Lions (known locally as 'Scratchers'), a few hundred yards further down Meadrow towards Godalming, hosts live music with special focus on blues.

Andy Finney's infrared image of Catteshall Lock Click to visit Andy Finney's photo gallery
click on image to go to photographer's website

Immediately downstream from the lock is a modern bridge and Farncombe Boat House (GR: SU982445) appropriately surrounded by water on the spur of land that separates the Navigation from a cut that once serviced the mill. It is the bridge here, not the one right by the lock, that is Catteshall Bridge, built on the piers of a medieval bridge over the original millstream of the mill. The existing boat house was built in 1908 and is on land now leased from the National Trust, and the business today provides pleasure boats for hire to the public.

Farncombe Boathouse - autumnal sunset

It is comforting to see that the tradition of pleasure boating continues to be successfully promoted by the boat house here, as it was on this site that one of the Leroy brothers, from a boathouse downstream in Guildford, set up business in 1895 taking advantage of the pastime the Victorians had taken to heart with a real gusto. The first record of pleasure boating was at Pyrford near Woking with an account in 1750 of a skiff being hired out for 2s 6d. There were originally nine boathouses hiring out pleasure craft but today on the Wey there are now sadly only those at Byfleet, Guildford and Godalming.

Catteshall Lock by Paul Farmer
click on image to go to photographer's website

“There used to be some funny people on the river. A very long time ago I remember an old boy at Farncombe, lived in that boathouse. He used to live on top of the boathouse where he built a platform and had his bed and everything up there. He was a miserable old so and so.” Captain White bargemaster. Excerpt from 'Captain White's River Life' Nancy Larcomber

IONA IN CATTESHALL LOCK

The village of Farncombe which was first documented as a manor in the Domesday Survey was physically linked to Godalming by the urbanisation that rapidly occured after the coming of the railways. The dawn of scouting under Lord Baden-Powell, who was educated at nearby Charterhouse School, saw the first scout troop formed in Farncombe in 1912 where meetings were originally held in Farncombe Street Hall run by Farncombe Church before a drill hall was built in Station Road.

The village is to finally lose its social club after 95 years. The Progressive Club in St John's Street had become a social problem in the eyes of many and had its licence revoked after the police raided the venue and discovered evidence of drug dealing on the premises. 23 people were subsequently convicted for the supply of Class A drugs. In the last few years of its existence the private-members club had turned from a friendly and safe community hub into what locals described as the 'aggressive club' with a long list of recorded incidents since June 2005 of assaults, public disorder, noise and drugs offences. Planning permission has been secured (April 2008) for demolition of the building and for a three-storey block with six flats and a 'community unit' to be built facing the road with a second block of three houses behind.

In 1918 Surrey Police records show that the Force employed its first policewoman who was posted to Farncombe to deal with prostitutes who had moved into the area attracted by the wartime army camp at nearby Witley.

Farncombe, the River c1955.  (Neg. F10002)  © Copyright The Francis Frith Collection 2007. http://www.francisfrith.com
Farncombe Boathouse c1955
Reproduced courtesy of The Francis Frith Collection
 

Catteshall Mill

A hundred yards or so further along Catteshall Lane from the boathouse is Catteshall Mill (GR: SU982445), once an extremely prosperous mill and one that has provided a lot of excitement for industrial archaeologists. A water turbine installed at the mill towards the end of its working life was found to be an 1869 Fourneyron. This French designed Belfast-built machine was the largest Fourneyron ever made and the oldest to survive. Having been rescued from irreversible decay the turbine was moved in 1981 to a temporary home at Westbrook Mill from whence it was hoped that it might be returned fully restored to its original home. Sadly this was not to be and the turbine is now on show at the Ironbridge Museum in Shropshire. The site was listed in the Domesday Book as one of three in the Godalming area and over many centuries mills here have been involved in the fulling of woollen cloth, the grinding of corn, and the manufacture of both paper and leather. At the time of installing the Fourneyron the mill was producing paper.

Steam Locomotive at Farncombe Crossing
click on image to go to artist's website Click to visit Garth Allan's Website

The site lay semi-derelict for decades but has now been renovated with all of the outlying industrial buildings that had spread around the mill having been given a new lease of life. These remain in light-industrial use but the imposing mill building which had housed the huge water turbine has been converted (2006) into upmarket apartments. The largest apartment, which has the commanding position at the top of the three storey brick building and includes a roof garden, is on the market for a hefty £550,000 (July 2006).

The mill development, now renamed Penstock Mews to reflect the penstock to its front, is described thus by a local estate agent.

"Penstock Mews at Catteshall Mill is a stylish development of new homes, artfully blending past and present. Believed to be one of the three mills recorded in the Doomsday (sic) Book, Catteshall Mill has for centuries presided over the riverside area to the east of Godalming. Today the original mill building, once renowned for its paper-making, has been carefully restored and converted into four unique apartments."

Move on to the next stretch of the Godalming Navigation:
CATTESHALL TO UNSTEAD LOCK

MORE ABOUT GODALMING

WEY VALLEY MADNESS:
THE WOBBLY HILL RACES

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